A Day Spent Learning About the People and Culture of the Kyrgyz Republic

Tapestries at the Museum of Fine Art

 Day 4: So, after some quiet days, today was quite busy. It is cold (50’s), so I decided to visit to visit the Museum of Fine Art. When I arrived, it was quiet with only a guard and cashier. Not understanding the signs, I headed into the exhibit and the guard redirected me to pay. The cashier pointed to a sign with options in English, but I could not communicate my wish to get an English audio guide. She ended up taking money from my wallet and handing me a ticket at a price that was below all those listed on the sign. I now know four words of Kyrgyz, but the only one helpful in that exchange was Rakhmat (thank you).

The bottom floor of the exhibit had some nice paintings, but all the signs were in Kyrgyz, so I had no idea the significance. I thought it would be a quick visit. I was pleasantly surprised upstairs to see signs in Kyrgyz and English! The museum contained a variety of regional art (sculptures, paintings, modern art). My favorite were the beautiful Kyrgyz tapestries, with intricate weavings from mostly felt and wool. A highlight was befriending the museum guard in the tapestry room. We spent a long time with google translate trying to understand each other’s names and where we were from. We shared pictures of family. I regret after such a warm, friendly exchange I still cannot pronounce her name.

 

Afterward I walked through the nearby gardens to Ala-Too Square where the “Mighty Manos” statue stands guard. I hoped to visit the National History Museum, but it has been closed for over a year for renovations. I think the Kyrgyz people have given up hope it will open. I was fortunate to catch the changing of the guard which occurs each hour.

Mighty Manos

Behind the museum is the Lenin statue. It used to sit in Ala-Too Square (formerly Lenin Square), but was moved after independence from Soviet Union. It now faces the Kyrgyz Republic Government building. There were many other impressive statues in the botanical & sculpture garden between the museums.

Lenin Statue

After a short break, it was time for my anxiously awaited tours. Tourism is fairly new to Kyrgyz Republic, but I was able to find the company Tours by Locals. My guide’s father drove her to pick me up at my flat as she thought I was far from the city center. I have yet to see a woman drive in Kyrgyz Republic though it is considered a liberal country in central Asia. As I experience the driving, I don’t think I would want to drive here! 

We first visited Osh Bazaar to pick up the groceries to make our meal. I desperately needed dish towels as I’ve been using cleaning rags for my dishes! My guide quickly and expertly navigated the huge bazaar to help me find some.

The place is a huge maze, with an overwhelming amount of food, clothes, household supplies, etc. If I was left in the middle, there is NO WAY I would find my way out! As we shopped, my guide encouraged me to try samsa, a delicious pastry with beef and onions. I was eating as we walked and could hardly keep up.

We also sampled horse meat sausage, which was half fat/half meat and incredibly rich and kumis (fermented goats milk). The guide warned if you’re tired or haven’t eaten it could make you dizzy. I later learned it could make you drunk! It was very sour, so it would have been difficult for me to drink enough to have that effect.

Horse meat sausage

Sweets

Traditional and modern snacks

 I tried fermented corn and wheat drink as well. As we were gathering our groceries, a group of men were fighting quite aggressively. I understand that is common, but it was easy to stay away from and there was no fear of being hit by a stray bullet as guns are forbidden. We sampled snacks and sweets at the end of our shopping experience (my favorite) and I was full before we headed to visit the family to cook.

Tours by Locals have local guides that create experiences with local families. My guide knew this family from working with the woman at a food court. She hadn’t been to the house, so after some phone calls and searching, a young boy met the car and rode with us to the house. The house was a two-bedroom rental on shared property with a slightly larger home. The house had no sink in the kitchen, and I believe no running water in the two rooms. The kids were watching TV in the second room. Though the home was modest, there was an incredible spread of traditional foods already prepared. 

 

I felt awkward as no one was eating and was informed that the host usually wait until after the guest leaves to eat. We had some salad, tea and bread before clearing the table to cook manty-traditional dumplings. 

 

The family had moved from a small village nine hours away to Bishkek for work opportunities and I was the first foreigner to visit their home. The oldest son is learning English for the first time as a fifth-grade student and practiced with me (with encouragement). The woman spoke a few words with me as well and it was a good opportunity to practice some Kyrgyz. I’m not a good cook and after taking too long to chop onions, the woman was surprised to hear my husband does nearly all the cooking at home.

  She is cooking and cleaning with a broken legs so she said she wanted to marry him. I learned to make and roll the dough for three styles of manty, which we filled with pumpkin/onion and potato/onion. It was quite impressive to see the cleanliness of the kitchen and how delicious the food was…without running water!!! The kitchen had a small refrigerator, but no oven or stove. The manty cooked on a hot plate. When we were finished cooking, the salads, jams, bread, nuts and sweets were returned to the table and we had tea as the manty cooked. It was a nice evening to learn about customs, education, etc. with a traditional family. As we talked the husband came in with a slight nod and went to the other room. The oldest son joined us to eat the manty when we finished, but the husband and youngest son did not. I learned homemade jam and honey are often used to sweeten tea and Kyrgyzstan has the largest walnut forest, which is near my host’s village. After eating a lot of great food, we were all exhausted and I headed back to the flat.